This PCB allows you to bypass the old Allegro A4984 stepper-drivers on the Rambo mainboard and re-direct the signals to discrete TMC2209 stepstick drivers to reduce noise and improve reliability/consistency.

You'll need

• PCB from the Tindie vendor based in Sweden

• 4 stepstick modules

• soldering skills

A potential further upgrade is a DC-DC boost converter in between the PSU and this PCB to "upgrade" the motors from 12V to 24V so they run cooler and quieter. (Prusa Mk3 and Mk2.x use the same motors.)

Cost: ~$60-80 ($30 for PCB, $30 for stepstick modules, $20 for DC-DC converter)

Install: 2-3 hours

The Mk2.5S upgrade transforms your Mk2/Mk2S into a much more usable machine.

The key change is the removable build plate and magnetic heat-bed. The extruder has been totally overhauled to improve reliability as well.  You'll need to print a bunch of new parts in PETG. Another benefit of this hardware upgrade is that it allows using the more modern Mk2.5S firmware that has hundreds of improvements comapred to the Mk2S which stopped getting updates in 2019.

Cost: ~$100 plus printed parts

Install: 2-3 hours

If you have a Mk2.5, consider upgrading your filament sensor to the more-reliable "S" style. The only drawback with this sensor is that it only detects filament runout, not that the filament is actually advancing or retracting. You'll need to print out S-style or S+ style extruder parts: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/61346-i3-mk3s-to-mk3s-upgrade-printable-parts

Cost: ~$12-15 in parts plus $3 in filament

install: 30 minutes (plus print time)

The texture is similar to the Prusa sheets but results in a more porous looking finish on PLA and PETG.  On Reddit and Amazon, customers claim that it is easier to print with these sheets compared to the original Prusa parts. Regardless of which textured sheets you choose, your parts will look far more professional with a textured sheet than regular smooth sheets, but some added care is needed:

• Use 90%+ isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to clean after each print

• After 10-20 prints, consider rinsing with mild dish detergent and warm water, then dry and wipe down both sides with IPA again.

• When releasing larger PETG prints, allow the part to fully cool to room temperature, then consider heating for a few minutes prior to releasing the print.

• For trickier PLA and ASA prints that tend to warp or dislodge, it is OK to use PVA glue stick to fill in the gaps on the texture. This will help the print stick and release when finished. Note that the texture of the part will look a little weird and there will be white residue on both the part and the sheet which you'll need to clean off with warm water.

Cost: ~$30-40

Install: 2 seconds

Ever get blobs of filament sticking to the nozzle? Or have a difficult time keeping the extruder at a constant temperature when the part cooling fan is on?

Put a sock on it!

These little beauties just clip onto the heat block and keep everything clean and at the proper temperature. They don't last forever and will eventually crack or deform from so many heat-cycles, so best to keep a spare.

Cost: ~$3 each

Install: 1-5 minutes depending on which part cooling shroud you have installed

The default 0.4mm nozzle is a "jack-of-all-trades" it does everything OK but isn't the best at any particular job. Don't be afraid of swapping the nozzle on your printer. Use the right nozzle for the right job. Need super detail for a figurine and can wait all day? Try the 0.25mm nozzle. Need a super strong part that prints fast? Try the 0.6mm or 0.8mm nozzle.

Cost: ~$5 per nozzle

Install: 5-10 minutes depending on which part cooling shroud you have installed