Embedded Files
Printed part upgrades
Printed part upgrades
Chassis, etc.
Chassis, etc.
harder feet (may improve print quality and reduce noise when combined with felt pads and a concrete paver)
Einsy PCB brace (stiffens chassis to minimize vibration)
top-mount LCD brackets (makes printer more compact and easier to use)
side storage trays (store tools and nozzles nearby)
center storage tray (even more storage)
adjustable friction spool holder (some spools unwind too quickly, so this approach allows you to fine-tune the friction to make filament feeding more consistent)
extruder motor cooler (for long prints in an enclosures where ironing is used, the motors can overheat causing filament jams - a fan and shroud solve this issue at the expense of print speed due to the extra mass)
Extruder & X-axis
Extruder & X-axis
Mk3S+ style extruder parts (easier maintenance compared to Mk3/Mk3S - good to have spares of all the parts surrounding the heat block)
upgraded part cooling fan duct (more even cooling on all sides - helpful for PETG printing where the fan rarely exceeds 50% speed; print in ABS or ASA and have a spare)
fan cover (reduces likelihood of stray filament getting in and jamming the fan)
X motor cable strain relief (probably not needed, but routes the wires more cleanly)
extruder motor cooler (for long prints in an enclosures where ironing is used, the motors can overheat causing filament jams - a fan and shroud solve this issue at the expense of print speed due to the extra mass)
Y-axis
Y-axis
Y motor mount (improved reliability by making the mount itself the end-stop rather than one of the bearings)
Y bearing holders (improved bearing fitment - can make it easier to fine-tune the bed to run along rods with minimal resistance)
Y heatbed nyloc mounts or nyloc silicone mod (can help maintain more consistent bed leveling especially during season changes in unheated workspaces)
Y heatbed angled cable cover (compactness - prevents cable from getting jammed against rear of a printer enclosure)
12" x 12"x 0.25" cork boards (insulates bottom of heatbed to reduce power consumption and reduce warmup times - can reduce print quality if running at high speeds due to extra mass)
Printer hardware upgrades
Printer hardware upgrades
The texture is similar to the Prusa sheets but results in a more porous looking finish on PLA and PETG. On Reddit and Amazon, customers claim that it is easier to print with these sheets compared to the original Prusa parts. Regardless of which textured sheets you choose, your parts will look far more professional with a textured sheet than regular smooth sheets, but some added care is needed:
Use 90%+ isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to clean after each print
After 10-20 prints, consider rinsing with mild dish detergent and warm water, then dry and wipe down both sides with IPA again.
When releasing larger PETG prints, allow the part to fully cool to room temperature, then consider heating for a few minutes prior to releasing the print.
For trickier PLA and ASA prints that tend to warp or dislodge, it is OK to use PVA glue stick to fill in the gaps on the texture. This will help the print stick and release when finished. Note that the texture of the part will look a little weird and there will be white residue on both the part and the sheet which you'll need to clean off with warm water.
Cost: ~$30-40
Install: 2 seconds
An enclosure helps to maintain a consistent air temperature around the printer resulting in more reliable prints for PETG and ABS. It also reduces noise and smells. You will need to cut a small hole to pass the power cable through.
Cost: ~$30-40
Install: 5 minutes
A 350W PSU may be more reliable and reduce power consumption since it will run in its most efficient range vs being overdriven like the original 250W PSU. The drawback is the added noise of the cooling fan.
Ever get blobs of filament sticking to the nozzle? Or have a difficult time keeping the extruder at a constant temperature when the part cooling fan is on?
Put a sock on it!
These little beauties just clip onto the heat block and keep everything clean and at the proper temperature. They don't last forever and will eventually crack or deform from so many heat-cycles, so best to keep a spare.
Cost: ~$3 each
Install: 1-5 minutes depending on which part cooling shroud you have installed
The default 0.4mm nozzle is a "jack-of-all-trades" it does everything OK, but isn't the best at any particular job. Don't be afraid of swapping the nozzle on your printer. Use the right nozzle for the right job. Need super detail for a figurine and can wait all day? Try the 0.25mm nozzle. Need a super strong part that prints fast? Try the 0.6mm or 0.8mm nozzle.
Cost: ~$5 per nozzle
Install: 5-10 minutes depending on which part cooling shroud you have installed
The right side of the printer is braced with the PSU. Reduce vibrations on the left side with this 3D-printable part to tie the Einsy PCB box into the aluminum extrusion.
Cost: ~$0.50 in filament
Install: 30 minutes
The printed par eliminates the flex of the factory motor mount and adds a more robust end-stop to reduce the likelihood of "crashes" on the Y-axis due to Y-bearing misalignment.
Cost: ~$0.25 in filament
Install: 15 minutes - you will need to re-tension the belt
Spare Parts
Spare Parts
Some printer components wear out so it's best to have a few spares:
LM8UU bearings (Misumi brand are best but more expensive and often out of stock)
extruder motor (3DO or Moons brands are best, but generic is OK)
2mm PTFE tubing (may be required when re-building extruder)
spare nozzles (consider using a 0.6mm nozzle)
all extruder plastic pieces - these can be damaged if your print fails and a massive blob of melted filament envelopes them
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